A Brief Studies on Block Printing Process in India

Abstract

Introduction

I. INTRODUCTION

Hand Block Printing on textiles refers to the technique by which carved wooden blocks covered with dye are repeatedly pressed along a length of cloth to create patterns. The beginnings of the art of ornamenting textile fabrics by the stamping or printing on of colored designs are lost in antiquity. Block printing is believed to have originated in China towards early 3rd century. Around the 4th century, records of its presence were found in Egypt and some Asian countries from where it spread to Europe and other places. Block printing was first developed in China and is said to be over 2000 years old. However, the earliest known example is the Diamond Sutra from 868 AD which is currently in the British museum. Records show that as far back as the 12th century, several centers in the south, on the western and eastern coasts of India became renowned for their excellent printed cotton. On the southeastern coast the brush or kalam (pen) was used, and the resist applied by the same method. In the medieval age printing and dyeing of cottons was specially developed in Rajasthan. In Gujarat the use of wooden blocks for printing was more common. Tents were made from printed fabrics and soon they became necessary part of royal processions. The seasons largely influenced the integration of the highly creative processes of weaving, spinning, dyeing and printing. Festivals also dictated this activity. Block printing is a special form of printing first developed in China. The earliest known example with an actual date is a copy of the Diamond Sutra from 868 A.D (currently in the British Museum), though the practice of block printing is probably about two thousand years old Trade in cotton cloth is said to have existed between India and Babylon from Buddha's time. Printed and woven cloths traveled to Indonesia, Malaya and the Far East. In the 17th century, Surat was established as a prominent center for export of painted and printed calicos, covering an extensive range in quality. Cheaper printed cloth came from Ahmedabad and other centers, and strangely enough Sanganer was not such a famous center for printing as it is today.

The village of Dhamadka in Kutch is noted for their reversible prints, known as Ajarakh handloom textiles. Ajarakh is produced in Sindhi; Kutch, Gujarat; and Barmer, Rajasthan in India. These textiles featured geometric and floral patterns. The name is derived from 'azrak' the Arabic word for 'blue' , as indigo blue happens to be one of the predominant colours in Ajrak printing and it is one of the oldest printed fabric known to man. Woodblock printing gives rise to very geometric shapes and patterns. Vegetable dyes and other natural dyes are used for the process, and this garment is a symbol of the area's culture and heritage. This print uses motifs in intense colors like Black, yellow, crimson red, green and indigo blue (Blue and red are the most prominent and distinguishing colors of this print) and will also have motifs worked in white (unprinted) and black, usually as outline – the white and black defining the design. Ajarakh cloth is block printed by stamps on one or both sides. Co-ord Sets for Women: The Ultimate Fashion Trend to Elevate Your StyleWooden blocks engraved in geometric shapes and patterns are dipped in natural dyes and used in this process. Usually multiple colors are seen in the same fabric, with many different types of motifs, including border prints.

Ajrak has become a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions. Ajrakh is printed using a very complex method involving both resist and mordant techniques, and has a long process involving as many as 20-30 different steps of printing and washing the fabric over and over again with various natural dyes- A very labor intensive printing process indeed. The entire process can take up to two weeks resulting in the creation of the beautiful eye-catching pattern of the arak. This cloth was mainly used for turbans, lungis, shoulder cloths, womens skirts, stoles etc. Ajrakh cloth kurtas are in vogue but you'll also find bed sheets, pillow covers and table clothes in this fabric. Ajarakh cloth is also used as marriage wear by Muslim males.

B. Dabu

Dabu or daboo originates in Rajasthan and has survived the test of time with some difficulty and is a time-consuming printing technique involving many phases and a great amount of labour Supposedly.

VI. SWOT ANALYSIS OF BLOCK PRINTING INDUSTRY IN INDIA

A. Strength

1. Traditional printing technique.
2. Explorations in the designs are always done according to the need.
3. Practiced in many clusters all over India.
4. The traditional block printing craft has flourished over the past three decades, with increasing demand from both export and domestic markets
5. A large mass of people are involved in this business.
6. India is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters of block printed fabric in the world. Block printing craftsmen use wooden or metal blocks to create beautiful designs.
7. Block Printing on Textiles has a very small carbon footprint. The printing and coloring process is labor intensive and uses no electricity.
8. The process uses vegetable dyes which are chemical free.
9. The material used for block printing is usually handloom or khadi, using no power

B. Weakness

1. Time consuming process. Require human skill and labor Opportunities:
2. One of the oldest known printing technique.
3. Many Indian designers are working on block printing.
4. It is cheap and easy to start a block printing unit. India is having a very large no. of block printing units
5. In recent times the export of block printed garments have seen a steep increase as its demand has increased especially in western countries because of its durability and distinctive patterns and designs.

C. Threats

1. Block printing faces an increasing threat from the mushrooming of screen-printing units that are selling their products - often, designs copied from block prints - as genuine block printed products.
2. Modern techniques of fabric printing are cheaper and less time consuming, so they are also gaining popularity affecting the market of block printing.

References

[1] http://www.woodprintblocks.com/ [2] http://www.craftandartisans.com/hand-block-printing [3] http://treesouls.com/eco-living/revival-of-traditional-eco-friendly-hand-block-printinq-in-bagru-rajasthan/ [4] http://www.aiacaonline.org/pdf/block-printing-extended-documentation.pdf [5] http://www.theindianblockcompany.com/P

Copyright

Copyright © 2023 Shraddha Singh. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.