Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Face Scrub

Abstract

Cosmetics are defined as the products used for the purpose of beautifying, cleansing, promoting attractiveness or alternating the appearance. The aim of study is to formulate and evaluate a face scrub with incorporation of the sapodilla as an active ingredient. For the purpose of enhancing skin beauty, several skin conditions are developed, such as skin protection, sunscreen, anti-acne, and anti-wrinkle products. Despite the enormous health benefits of synthetic substances, which once more cause environmental destruction, demand for herbal items and cosmetics is rising daily. Due to their dual functionality as medications and cosmetics, herbal cosmetics are in high demand nowadays. The name itself indicates that herbal cosmetics are natural and they do not contain any chemicals. Natural ingredients have no side effects, making them the safest and greatest products to use on a daily basis. A facial scrub is a cosmetic or a beauty product used to exfoliate and clean the skin on the face and body. Blackheads, whiteheads, sebum, and skin cells can all be removed by using face scrubs. In this face scrub, sapodilla is used as an active ingredient. The other ingredients like carbopol, methyl paraben, triethanolamine, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulphate were added into this face scrub gel. The prepared face scrub were evaluated for various parameters such as organoleptic properties, pH, irritability, washability, grittiness, extrudability, foamability, spreadability and found to be satisfactory outcome. The prepared formulation works well as a scrub that encourages healthy and radiant skin.

Introduction

I. INTRODUCTION

The body’s largest organ is the skin. It acts as a key organ of protection for other body parts. The skin serves as a barrier to protect the inside from external dangers like the corrosive effects of the sun, wind, and pollution as well as dirt and germs that are present in daily air [1] – [2]. Yeast and bacteria, among other microorganisms, are supported by the skin’s natural ecology and cannot be eradicated by cleansing. The health of a person can also be determined by their skin, another sensory organ. It is made up of substances like amino acids, lipids, and carbohydrates, among others, thus skin needs a balanced diet to be shiny, clear, and healthy [3] – [4].  Cosmetics are defined as the products used for the purpose of beautifying, cleansing, promoting attractiveness or alternating the appearance [5]. Cosmetics come in a variety of forms and are used worldwide to enhance beauty. For the purpose of enhancing skin beauty, several skin conditions are developed, such as skin protection, sunscreen, anti-acne, and anti-wrinkle products [6]. Some people have natural beauty, while others have it artificially enhanced. The usage of cosmetics and herbal products has substantially expanded in the current climate [7]. Despite the enormous health benefits of synthetic substances, which once more cause environmental destruction, demand for herbal items and cosmetics is rising daily. Since the dawn of humankind and civilization, beauty and cosmetics have been a part of life [8]. Due to their dual functionality as medications and cosmetics, herbal cosmetics are in high demand nowadays. Skin care products play a significant role in boosting people’s confidence. Although it was always believed that women were the main consumers of skin care products, today’s males are just as concerned with how they look [9].  Products that are used to cleanse and enhance the skin are known as herbal cosmetics. Men have rough skin, and when they don’t take proper care, the skin darkens from excessive sun exposure. The main benefit of using a herbal cosmetic is that it is pure and has no negative side effects on the human body [10]. The name itself indicates that herbal cosmetics are natural and they do not contain any chemicals. A facial scrub is a cosmetic or a beauty product used to exfoliate and clean the skin on the face and body. Blackheads, whiteheads, sebum, and skin cells can all be removed with the help of facial scrubs. It also supports keeping skin looking good [11]. There are many different sorts of cosmetics, and each has a specific function for the skin. There are many reasons why skin gets non glowing and dull, and these can all be efficiently treated by using scrubs. There are three different varieties of skin, including dry skin, oily skin, and sensitive skin [12]. Because dead skin cells are removed via routine usage of scrubs, new skin cells are exposed, resulting in skin that is radiant, smooth, soft, and healthy [13]. Face scrubs exfoliate the skin, clear out clogs and oil from pores, keep skin supple, and quicken cell turnover [14] – [15]. The mild abrasive agent is key ingredient of face scrub. It is recommended to gently massage the skin after applying scrub to help enhance blood flow and increase oxygenation of the skin’s surface. Scrub can be applied straight to the skin or with a small cosmetic pad [16] – [17].

By eliminating the top layer of skin cells and promoting cell development in the sub-epidermal layer, herbal exfoliants reduce the effects of ageing and counteract environmental assault [18]. Age causes a significant slowdown in cell turnover. The majority of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin on the face stay there for a longer period of time, which tends to highlight fine wrinkles and can give the complexion a lifeless, dull appearance. Dry skin, wrinkles, and dark spots are the second most common skin problems nowadays, behind acne and pimples.

Scrubbing is utilised to treat every skin condition, regardless of the type of skin [19]. The skin’s surface needs to be cleaned frequently in order to remove grime, sebum, and other secretions, dead cells, crusts, and makeup that has been applied in order to stay healthy and attractive [20].

Oily skin, sensitive skin, and dry skin are the three different types of skin. Use the face scrub, which has hydrating and moisturising components, if you have dry skin. A gentle scrub should be used if the person has sensitive skin. And the individual with oily skin should use an exfoliation that helps to manage oiliness while preventing breakouts, dullness, and pimples [21]. Face scrubs should be used twice or three times a week, depending on the kind of skin. But it’s advised to use face washes once a week for beginners. Only one or two times per week should those with dry or sensitive skin exfoliate. Salicylic acid and dermatologist-grade 4% glycolic and polyhydroxy acid complex products are sometimes advised for usage by those with acne-prone skin. This gives skin a smoother appearance while helping to exfoliate the skin and eliminate acne [22].

A. Ideal properties of a face scrub

1. It should be Non- sticky and mild abrasive.
2. It should be Non-toxic.
3. It must removes dirt and dead skin.
4. It should Non-irritant.
5. It must contain small gritty particles [23].

B. Merits of scrub

1. To maintain pristine skin: To expose clean skin, scrub away dirt, sweat to reveal clean skin. Unfortunately, the containers of cleaning milk, face wash, and facial cleansers can’t get rid of all the dust that builds up in your skin’s pores. This is effectively accomplished via scrubbing.
2. Eliminates skin flakes: Patches of dry skin result from flaky skin. It permits the accumulation of dead cells over time. One can easily treat flaky skin by exfoliating it.
3. Enhances skin shine: Skin may even appear more radiant after exfoliation.
4. Helps to remove dead cell: Skin looks drab and weary because of dead cells. With a soft scrub, remove them.
5. Get rid of acne scars: Exfoliation aids in the removal of acne scars.
6. For smooth skin: Being more attractive starts with having smooth skin. A skin will become soft and well-nourished in addition to appearing completely smooth after the scrub.
7. Improving skin’s texture: Skin will be cleaner, smoother, and have a better texture after a good scrub [24].

  C. Demerits of scrub

1. Skin irritation, including redness and inflammation, can be brought on by harsh rubbing movements and chemicals. A person with sensitive skin may potentially experience allergic responses to the chemicals found in synthetic scrubs.
2. Over scrubbing can leave pores open, exposing the skin to both UV radiation and pollution. A skin may becomes more vulnerable to infections and tanning as a result [25].

D. Difference between face wash and face scrub

1. Face wash: The face wash is creamy and usually smooth. Most doctors advise using merely a face wash and not a scrub if you have sensitive skin. A face wash uses chemicals, like soap, to remove the oil and grime from your face.
2. Face scrub: Face scrub typically contain some kind of grit that is used to remove dead skin cells. Scrubs for the face might aggravate skin irritation and make it simpler to itch. Face scrub uses exfoliants like walnut shells or microbeads to remove the oil and grime from your face.

E. Selection of scrub based on skin type

1. For oily skin: When their skin pores are clogged by additional sebum oil, people with oily skin typically struggle with acne issues. Therefore requires a face scrub that not only gets rid of the skin’s dead cells but also has anti-pimple capabilities. The anti-acne properties of salicylic acid are well established. One should purchase a face wash with salicylic acid or other anti-acne chemicals if one have an oily skin.
2. For dry skin: Any face cleanser with components designed to remove dead skin cells can be used by those with dry skin. One such chemical that eliminates flaky skin and dead skin cells quickly is glycolic acid. It is a well-known excellent exfoliant. Seek for a face scrub that contains glycolic acid and improves a skin by hydrating it.
3. For sensitive skin: While choosing skincare products, people with sensitive skin should be more cautious. A face scrub that is both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory is best if one have sensitive skin. Both bacterial and fungal resistance are present in propylene glycol. Yogurt and turmeric are both organic substances with anti-inflammatory properties. Sugar scrubs are thought to be excellent for sensitive skin. Dead skin cells can easily be removed with the help of sugar, a natural skin exfoliator.
4. For combination skin: Choosing a face scrub might be challenging because combination skin is a mix of dry and oily skin. However, according to specialists, persons with combination skin should use a facial scrub to remove extra oil from the skin without drying it out [26].

II. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN FACE SCRUB

A. Sapodilla

Since a few decades ago, there has been a greater emphasis on finding new chemical molecules (NCMs) that are sourced from nature and have biological activity. Of these NCMs, 28% were found between 1981 and 2002 and are of natural origin [27]. Since ancient times, the natural world has been a source of therapeutic agents, and an astounding number of contemporary medications have been separated from it, frequently as a result of its traditional medical applications. Lipid peroxidation is primarily caused by free radicals; highly reactive free radicals and oxygen species are found in biological systems from a range of sources [28]. Oxidative stress is caused by a severe imbalance between the generation of free radicals and the antioxidant defence system. Antioxidants work by either inhibiting enzymes or by chelating trace elements to prevent the generation of reactive oxygen species [29] – [30]. An external source of antioxidants, especially those that are naturally occurring, can be very helpful in preventing oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals in addition to the internal antioxidant system that already exists in the human body. Plants include a variety of phytochemicals, such as phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, saponins, tannins, glycosides, and alkaloids [31]. UV rays cause the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin. Skin pigmentation is accumulated on melanocytes by the ROS process. The epidermal phenylalanine hydroxylase is thus accelerated by ROS (PAH; EC 1.14.16.1). The rate-limiting enzyme for the synthesis of L-tyrosine is PAH. The first substrate for tyrosinase is L-tyrosine [32]. By acting as both a monophenolase and a diphenolase, tyrosinase catalyses the hydroxylation of l-tyrosine to l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and the oxidation of L-DOPA to dihydroxyphenylalanine quinone (DOPAquinone) [33]. Through the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, several skin-whitening products stop skin hyperpigmentation. Because of this, tyrosinase inhibitors have been added to skin-whitening creams to stop pigmentation issues. Tyrosinase inhibitors that are sold commercially have been used to treat hyperpigmentation include kojic acid and alpha-arbutin. The sapodilla also shows an antityrosinase activity [34]. The search for naturally occurring antioxidants with plant origin is the focus of current study. Antioxidants have been shown to protect against oxidative damage caused by free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS); any may delay the onset of disease, cancer, and old age. By interacting with free radicals, chelating, catalytic metals, and serving as an oxygen scavenger, it can obstruct the oxidation process [35] – [36]. Consumer interest has grown in natural antioxidants, notably those found in fruits, vegetables, and drinks. Dietary antioxidants shield body cells from the oxidative damage to a target molecule brought on by free radical oxidation by reactive oxygen species [37] – [38]. Nature has blessed us with a wonderful flora and wildlife that have made our lives more beautiful. One of nature’s wonders, Manilkara zapota (L.) P. Royen, also known as Sapodilla, chickoo, or sapota, is a member of the Sapotaceae family, which includes about 65 genera and 800 species [39]. The fruit has several names naseberry (British West Indies), chicku (India), chicopote, chickozapote (Mexico), dilly (Bahamas), kauki (Southeast Asia), mispu, mispel, mispelboon (Suriname), muyozapot (El Salvador), nispero (Puerto Rico), sapitija, sapodilla plum, sapodilla (Dutch West Indies), sapota, sapote (Cuba), sapoti or sapotilha (Brazil),

sapotille and sapotillier (French West Indies). One of the more well-known names in America is Sapodilla. The Latin word zapotilla, which meaning little sapote, is the source of the name sapodilla. The plant may grow to a height of 30 metres and is well adapted to a wide range of climatic conditions, from dry chilly subtropical to wet tropical.

Due to the fact that the roots are situated within 75 cm of the earth’s depth, it can also grow in arid environments, on poor soil, and in regions with little rainfall. For the first ten years, no pruning is required. For the first four years, young trees need to be watered. The crop benefits from using fertilisers high in potassium and phosphorus. The tree mostly reproduces vegetatively. The fruit is round or egg-shaped and weighs 75-200 g. Its diameter ranges from 5 to 9 cm. The pulp, which is the inside, fleshy portion of the fruit, is delicate and simple to consume. It has a gritty texture, a light brown colour, and usually has 12 flat, black seeds. Superior kinds have seedless flesh with a smoother texture [40]. Sapodilla originated in Mexico and is a native of Central America, although it is also grown in Asia, especially India [41]. About 162 thousand hectares of land in India are used for sapota cultivation, and 1358 thousand tonnes are produced generally each year [42]. Sapodilla consists of sugars (12–18 %), proteins (0.7 g/100 g), ascorbic acid (6.0 mg/100 g), phenols (15.35 mg gallic acid equivalent/100 g), carotenoids (1.69 mg b-carotene/100 g), and minerals like; phosphorous (27 mg/100 g), calcium (28 mg/100 g), iron (2.0 mg/100 g), potassium (193 mg/100 g), copper (0.086 mg/100 g), etc [43]. According to Ganguly and Rahman’s research, sapodilla leaves have the potential to have cytotoxic, antioxidant, antibacterial, and mildly CNS depressive effects. These properties could be used to treat conditions like cancer, tumours, infectious disorders, and oxidative stress [44]. The non-edible fruit parts also contribute to the positive effect of the fruit based on the biological principles involved in it, therefore the health advantages of Manilkara zapota fruits are not confined to the edible component of the fruit [45]. Despite being discarded, the fruit peels of Manilkara zapota fruits contain a number of valuable compounds. The Manilkara zapota peel is abundant in antioxidants and contains numerous significant bioactive phenolic compounds that are responsible for the fruit’s health advantages. Several researchers and professionals have been interested in it in particular because of the wide range of phenolic chemicals and flavonoids it contains [46]. The presence of
phenolic hydroxyl groups in flavonoids makes them one of these that may efficiently scavenge reactive oxygen species and function as potent antioxidants [47]. Sapodilla is a fantastic source of antioxidants, including more than 3000 mg/L of ascorbic acid equivalent antioxidant capacity (AEAC) per 100 g of fresh sample [48]. 3'-caffeoylquinic polyphenols have been discovered in immature sapota fruit. Manilkara zapota L. fruits have a high level of tannin in their unripe state, which may be the reason for the fruit’s high antioxidant capacity. However, as the fruit ripens, the tannin content drops [49]. Sapodilla is used as exfoliant. Little, scrubbing-feeling particles cover the fruit itself. Scrub your nose ends and face in slow, circular motions. Its vitamin E content hydrates skin, provides a natural skin texture, and results in skin that is glowing and healthy [50].

B. Excipients

1. Carbopol

a. Chemical Name- Carbomer

b. IUPAC name- Poly(acrylic acid), poly(1-carboxyethylene)

c. Molecular formula-(C3H4O2) n

d. Molecular weight-713.1 g/mol

e. Functional category- Bioadhesive material, controlled-release agent, emulsifying agent, emulsion stabilizer, rheology modifier, stabilizing agent, suspending agent, tablet binder.

f. Description- Carbopol is white-coloured, fluffy, acidic, hygroscopic powders with a characteristic slight odour. A granular carbopol is also available.

g. Synonym- Acrypol, Acritamer, acrylic acid polymer, carbomera, Carbopol, carboxy polymethylene, polyacrylic acid, carboxyvinyl polymer, Pemulen, Tego Carbomer.

h. Uses- Carbopol is used as a thickener in lotions, creams and gels. It is also used to stabilize, suspend, and control the release of pharmaceutical products.

2. Methyl Paraben

a. IUPAC name- Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate

b. Molecular formula- C8H8O3

c. Molecular weight-152.15 g/ mol

d. Functional category- Antimicrobial preservative

e. Description- Methyl paraben occurs as colourless crystals or a white crystalline powder. It is odourless or almost odourless and has a slight burning taste.

f. Synonym- Methyl paraben, Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, Methyl Para hydroxybenzoate, Nipagin M, E number E218, Tegosept, Mycocten, metagin, methyl chemosept, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester.

g. Uses- Inhalation solutions, Nasal solutions, ophthalmic preparations, Oral solutions and suspensions, intradermal injections.

3. Triethanolamine

a. IUPAC name- N, N-diethylethanamine

b. Molecular formula- C6H15NO3

c. Molecular weight- 149.19 g/mol

d. Functional category- Alkalizing agent, emulsifying agent.

e. Description- Triethanolamine is a clear, colourless to pale yellow-coloured viscous liquid having a slight ammonical odour

f. Synonyms- Tealan, triethylolamine, trihydroxy triethylamine, tris (hydroxyethyl) amine, trolamine.

g. Uses- Triethanolamine is used as an intermediate in the manufacturing of surfactants, textile specialties, waxes, polishes, herbicides, petroleum demulsifiers, toilet goods, cement additives, and cutting oils.

4. Propylene Glycol

a. IUPAC name- Propane-1, 2-diol

b. Molecular formula- C3H8O2

c. Molecular weight- 76.09 g/mol

d. Functional Category- Antimicrobial preservative, disinfectant, humectant, plasticizer, solvent, stabilizing agent, water-miscible co-solvent.

e. Description- Propylene glycol is a clear, colourless, viscous, practically odourless liquid, with a sweet, slightly acrid taste resembling that of glycerin.

f. Synonyms- 1, 2-Dihydroxypropane, E1520; 2-hydroxypropanol, methyl ethylene glycol, methyl glycol, propane-1, 2-diol, propylenglycolum.

g. Uses- Propylene glycol is used in cosmetics and in the food industry as a carrier for emulsifiers and as a vehicle for flavours in preference to ethanol, since its lack of volatility provides a more uniform flavour.

5. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

a. IUPAC name- Sodium dodecyl sulphat

b. Molecular formula- C12H25NaO4S

c. Molecular weight-288.38 g/mol

d. Functional category- Anionic surfactant, detergent, emulsifying agent, skin penetrant, tablet and capsule lubricant, wetting    agent.

e. Description- Sodium lauryl sulphate consists of white or cream to pale yellow-coloured crystals, flakes, or powder having a smooth feel, a soapy, bitter taste, and a faint odour of fatty substances.

f. Synonyms- lauryl sodium sulphate, lauryl sulphate, sodium salt, monododecyl sodium sulphate, natrii laurilsulfas, sodium dodecyl sulphate.

g. Uses- Anionic emulsifier, forms self-emulsifying bases with fatty alcohols, as detergent in medicated shampoos, Skin cleanser in topical applications, Solubilize in concentrations greater than critical micelle concentration, Tablet lubricant, Wetting agent in dentrifices [51].

III. MATERIAL AND METHOD

TABLE 1

Formulation table for face scrub

1.  
2.  
3. Method of face scrub

1. Preparation of sapodilla powder: Sapodilla was first bought from the local market. Then sapodilla was grated and let to dry in the sunlight for the following seven days. Sapodilla was ground into a powder once the water has completely evaporated from it.
2. Preparation of gel: Methyl paraben was weighed and dissolved in beaker containing rose water. To this, carbopol was added and stirred continuously for few minutes until it forms a gel. Sodium lauryl sulphate was weighed, dissolved separately with rose water and was added into above gel. Followed by this propylene glycol was added. Dropwise triethanolamine added into gel to neutralise pH. Active ingredient was then added into prepared gel and stirred [52].

IV. EVALUATION OF FACE SCRUB

The prepared gel was evaluated for organoleptic properties, pH, irritability, washability, grittiness, extrudability, foamability, spreadability [53] – [55].

A. Organoleptic Properties

1. Colour: Visual inspection revealed that the face scrub was light brown in colour.
2. Odour: The smell of formulation was checked by application of preparation on hand and feels the fragrance of perfume.
3. Consistency: The consistency of face scrub was found to be semi-solid and smooth by visual examination.
4. Homogeneity and Texture: A tiny amount of the prepared scrub was tested by pressing it between the thumb and index finger.

B. pH

pH of the produced gel was assessed using pH paper. Scrub is lightly applied on pH paper. The pH was discovered to be between 5-6.

C. Irritability

A small amount of the preparation was applied to the dorsal area of the hand, left on for a short time, and was discovered to be non-irritating. There is no oedema or redness occurs.

D. Washability

This test was carried out directly on the skin. After applying the preparation and rinsing the skin with ordinary water, the skin was found to be clear and clean.

E. Grittiness

Few gritty particles were found in the face scrub.

F. Extrudability

A small amount of gel was placed in a foldable ointment tube. One end was sealed off, while the other was left uncovered. On the closed side, a little pressure was applied. Both the length of time required for extrusion and the volume of gel extruded were recorded.

G. Foamability

In a graduated measuring cylinder, a small amount of scrub was agitated with water to quantify the foam.

H. Spreadability

The gel that comes out of the tube behaves in a way that is greatly influenced by its spreadability. It is used to determine the extent of the gel's spreadability on the skin. A glass slide with 100 g of weight was placed on it above a small amount of sample that had been deposited on the slide. A small quantity of sample was placed on a glass slide and another slide was placed above them; 100 g of weight was placed on the slide. The amount of time it took the gel to spread out on the slide was measured and determined to be 3 cm in 40 seconds. It was calculated by using following formula:

S = m×l/t             

Whereas, S = Spreadability

                m = Weight placed on slide

                l = Length of glass slide

                t = Time taken in seconds

Conclusion

In this work, we tried to make a herbal scrub. The created scrub gel was tested using a number of factors, and it was determined to be satisfactory for use on the skin to promote health and radiance without causing any side effects. By incorporation of sapodilla as scrubbing agent into the formulation, efficiency of product is increases. The use of a scrub gel, which promotes better blood flow and enhances oxygenation of the skin’s surface. Skin feels softer, cleaner, and more invigorated after applying scrub.

References

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Copyright © 2023 Ms. Varsha S. Marathe, Ms. Akanksha P. Nikum, Mr. Gautam S. Marathe, Ms. Sulbha G. Patil, Mrs. Sunila A. Patil. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.